On Spies, Visitors, and Harlequins

In the land of milk and honey, adventures cease to abate.  Now my Hebrew language classes - called ulpan -are in full swing five days a week, which here means Sunday to Thursday.  This shift in what constitutes the lion's share of the week is pleasantly jarring but I think I've been more productive because I'm still in the habit of being productive on Fridays prior to Shabbat.  This past Friday for example, I did some serious knowledge acquisition in the Christian quarter of the Old City with exploration in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.  The nave and transept proper are quite historic given that several of the stations of the cross may be found inside.  This translates to heavy traffic in the Church, but it is emotionally captivating to take in the vicarious experience of the other patrons.

Fewer feet fall on the staircase down to the cistern below the Church; my cohort made our way through a smaller door off to the side of the main courtyard and through a few winding hallways before heading down a damp, poorly lit passage.  The ceiling slunk low with the steps laden unevenly.  We traversed through this narrow place into a cavern, walls worn smooth by centuries of waterflow.  We took advantage of the excellent natural acoustics with a few songs of Kabbalat Shabbat - the echoes and reverberations are magnificent.  I was worried other patrons might be disturbed, but everyone who happened upon our group was very supportive - one woman even sang with us!

After our impromptu song sesh, we climbed up to the roofs of the Old City for some pre-Shabbos Torah study.  The portion of the week, Shlach L'cha brings us the tale of Moses sending an emissary from each of the 12 tribes into the Land of Israel to report back on what they find. Most of them come back warning of the intimidating size of the inhabitants and their impressive fruit production.  Only the voice of the minority remains optimistic at what the future may bring in this strange new land.  It does not take much imagination stretching to recognize that this portion is relevant to me and my fellow recent arrivals in the literal sense that we are exploring Israel and being shocked at the size of the grapes in the grocery store.  In a greater sense though this story is meaningful to anyone at the onset of a new chapter, unsure of what to expect and prone to the mercy of their own doubt.

A little rooftop exploration in the Old City

Speaking of envoys coming from afar, I am so pleased to report my first visitors.  Shout out to Beth Tikvah Congregation and the group who spent a lovely day with me in Jerusalem while here on tour.  I love meeting new people always, but there is great comfort in visiting with familiar friendly faces.  I can also report my first house guest; jealous? You too are welcome to my hospitality.  Plan your visit today!