The first Shabbat brought with it an opportunity to see the city in a new light. Although I had been warned, the quiet of Friday evening was pleasantly jarring. Gone were the hectic motorists and the smooth talking shop owners, l'hitraot to the construction team hammering next door and the delivery trucks pulled up onto the sidewalk. I welcomed kabbalat and maariv with a small group at an Orthodox minyan. These are clearly people who have davened together regularly for years and yet still bring their own tunes and tempos to every prayer. The congregant who had the most fun might have been the young daughter of the chazzen who darted from beyond the mechitza and consulted with every person individually about the contents of her coloring book.
I shared dinner with some of my fellow ulpan students at a potluck - the first of many, I'm sure. There was something notable, an almost tangible quality, when we made kiddush. I do not know if it was the joy of celebrating Shabbat for the first time here or if it was something about the company present, but no one could keep from smiling. We dined in style of course with wonderful shakshuka, chickpeas, Israeli salad, and chocolate rugelach from Marzipan. I felt positively about the whole experience and can't wait to do it all again.
The following day provided some much needed Shabbat m'nucha. In the afternoon, I took a hike through the city and explored the sculptural gardens near the Museum. The amount of greenery in this country is truly amazing given the climate and the lack of rainfall. Our cohort came back together for Havdalah in a park near school overlooking the Old City. As we sang together and watched the sun descend on the glimmering walls, I breathed easily and bid the First Shabbat adieu.
PS. Today's selection prepared while listening to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAGKdkf0viM
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